Each Chef Must Learn At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Dining Spot Secures 4th on Roll of London’s Top Restaurants.

When compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary triumph.